IT’S yet another win for the Con Christopoulos/Josh Brisbane/Ian Curley dream team — they of The European, Kirk’s, City Wine Store — with French Saloon. Within a simple, light-filled, handsome space — all rustic whitewashed floorboards, mismatched bentwood chairs — they’re serving some serious twists on “bistronomy”, washed down with on-theme wines from the cellar downstairs or pitch-perfect aperitifs from behind the long zinc bar.
It might be Petaluma trout served with pickled and dried fennel and a lick of oyster cream that shows the kitchen’s smarts, or a bright salad of mozzarella and apple and leek that shows it’s not short of inspiration. The daily changing butcher’s cut of steak served with mustard and hand-cut chips shows simple takes great skill, which the tight team delivers in spades. Hit the rooftop courtyard for balmy nights with a glass of crisp rose for the win for all.
Must eat dish: ocean trout
French Saloon offers some serious twists on “bistronomy”.
Level 1, 384 Lt Bourke St, city.
Ph: 9600 2142
Chefs: Todd Moses, Ian Curley
Price: between $41 and $80 a person for two courses, food only
Open: Mon-Fri noon-late
This restaurant was ranked the 75th best restaurant in Victoria in the 2016 edition of the delicious.100.